Meet Our Coffee Partner: Kerehaklu

For several years, the specialty coffee industry has been buzzing, wondering what the next big origin in coffee will be. Throughout the last decade, we’ve witnessed the rise and fall of various origins, varietals, and processing methods. As an industry, we oscillate between cutting-edge coffees that barely taste like coffee and more classic profiles that remind us of the past. Over the last two years, we have become familiar with—and fallen in love with—an origin we believe is the next big thing in the industry: India.

India is a lesser-known origin for specialty coffee, but it’s actually one of the oldest coffee-growing regions in the world. Surrounded by lush jungles, where native wildlife thrives, rich spices flourish, and centuries-old trees stand untouched by the outside world, you’ll find coffee plants.

In this blog post, we will explore India’s history as a coffee-growing region, its innovative processing methods, and Kerehaklu Estate, a family-run coffee plantation in the Western Ghats. We’ve interviewed Pranoy Thipaiah, one of the owners of Kerehaklu Estate. Pranoy is known for his cutting-edge processing techniques and conservation practices. In addition to producing some of the best coffees we’ve ever tasted, Pranoy has become a true friend to our team at Little Bear. Through this article, we aim to raise awareness about the amazing coffees from India and explain why you should keep an eye on this region.

 How long have you and your family been producing coffee?

In just a few months, Kerehaklu will be 72 years old. It was established in 1953 by my great-great-grandfather. From the beginning, we’ve been growing coffee, peppers, avocados, and other crops in harmony with the local biodiversity. Having been around for such a long time, it’s fascinating to see what each generation has contributed to Kerehaklu.

What does the name Kerehaklu mean to you and your family?

The meaning of Kerehaklu literally translates to "shelter by the lake." When broken down, "Kere" means lake and "Haklu" means shelter or hut. While that’s the dictionary definition, to us—and to me personally—it encompasses much more. It represents our commitment to coexisting with the land and its inhabitants.

We consider ourselves the stewards of the land; Kerehaklu is a multi-crop, multi-story ecosystem. At first glance, you might not see it as agricultural land, but it very much is. To us, Kerehaklu is synonymous with coexistence.

What got you into producing and processing coffee?

Producing, as I mentioned, is a longstanding tradition; it's been around for a very long time. Processing, on the other hand, is something I actively explored while working with a kombucha maker and fermenter named Achantya Anand, a good friend of mine in New Delhi. He brought me on as a contractor for three months, and during that time, I thought to myself, “Okay, I can do this.” It felt like my mind suddenly opened to a whole new world of fermentation.

I started considering options like making kombucha or growing microgreens, just as he does. But then I realized I was sitting on a gold mine: coffee! I understood that it would require time, specificity, and supervision, similar to kombucha, but I had spent considerable time researching Indian coffee. At that moment, Indian coffee was slowly gaining momentum, with several coffee shops and a few Indian roasters beginning to serve single-origin coffees. I thought, “You know what, let’s do this!” I never anticipated we would be where we are now. I always thought this venture would be something—not quite a side hustle—but perhaps not as significant as it has become to me. But here we are, and I’m incredibly grateful for everything we’ve achieved and everything that’s yet to come.

How would you describe your producing and processing practices?

To start, I would describe Kerehaklu as an old-growth forest. We have hundreds of hundred-year-old fig, red cedar, and jackfruit trees, along with many other plant species. The figs, in particular, are massive because of their age! A phrase that always comes to mind when I think of what we do is: “natural farmers.” There are concepts like permaculture practices and biodynamic farming that explain self-regulated farming, and I would say, in many ways, we fall into that category. This approach especially comes into play when it comes to processing.

I've been experimenting a lot over the past 4–5 years—like a crazy amount! I've done hundreds upon hundreds of experiments over the last five seasons, and I think I've reached a point where I realize that processing is very connected to the production side. If you have good soil, you'll have good microbes, and by harvesting those microbes, you’re able to incorporate the local microflora into the coffee. It’s similar to making kimchi or kombucha: if you have good microbes in your soil, you can harvest them to help stabilize the fermentation process using your local microbiome.

At this moment, that's where I am! I feel like I’m always evolving. A couple of years ago, I didn’t think this way, but right now, in my life and in my processing journey, I see myself as a harvester of local microbes because I want the uniqueness of my coffee to stand out. I think I’m in a transitional phase in how I position the lots and micro-lots we offer. To me, it’s important to have unique micro-lots where each one is different, rather than producing massive lots. But to each their own—one way of producing or processing isn’t better than the other; it’s just a matter of preference.

What motivates or excites you about coffee?

I think it's the potential that excites me. The fact that coffee has more flavor and aromatic compounds than wine is unbelievable. We’re just scratching the surface with coffee, and every time I taste a coffee that blows my mind, the wheels start turning. I think, "How did they do that?", "How did they achieve that?", "How did they dry it?" There are so many factors involved, and it's part of a vast value chain. I believe every single person and every single step plays a crucial role. That potential excites me, especially when it comes to Indian coffee. We're just beginning to venture into the unknown, and it’s an exciting time.

What does innovation mean to you?

That's a good question. I think innovation is an investment. Financially, you have to invest in infrastructure, research, and quality control. But at the same time, I believe it's also about being resourceful, and for me, that’s been key. It’s something I learned from my dad, and it has served me well. A great example of this is the school we run in a small town called Aldur, about 15 minutes from us. During COVID, the hostel and residential side of things closed down because the kids were commuting from home to school every day instead of staying on campus. At that time, we had around 25 or 30 unused bunk beds, and I realized they could make great raised beds. I repurposed them into four-layered, or four-tiered, raised beds. While this is a small example of being resourceful, those moments added up.

Similarly, innovation often comes from borrowing, evolving, or adapting techniques from other industries. For instance, I’ve borrowed a lot from beer brewers, winemakers, and distillers, using their techniques to process my coffee. I don’t think innovation has to be physical—it’s also mental.

Have these differences in what you’re doing allowed you to create a niche in the market?

Absolutely, absolutely! I think it’s the fact that we produce coffee that coexists with the local biodiversity. Like I mentioned earlier, we harvest local microbes and use them for our coffee. People enjoy the cups they receive first and foremost, and then, I believe, they appreciate the story that comes with it. While both aspects work hand in hand, I’m always cautious about storytelling. I never want the story of a coffee to overshadow the cup itself. The coffee should have the space to speak for itself.

That’s why I believe India should focus on Arabicas. We should aim to be a quality-driven origin—that should be our perspective. Coffee first and foremost, and the story behind it second. This approach has helped us massively, and I believe it will continue to do so. Whether it’s dealing with challenges like climate, labor, or other issues, having a resilient ecosystem goes a long way.

How has your background in microbiology helped with coffee production?

To be honest, I think it has helped a lot. While I was getting my degree, I didn’t really think about where it would take me or what I’d do with it afterward, but now I can definitely say it laid a solid foundation. I like the scientific, or experimental, method. If I have a hypothesis or goal in mind, I can experiment more effectively using what I learned from my degree to set better controls.

A great example of this is understanding the breakdown of sugars when starting the fermentation process. There are many angles you could approach this from, but that’s where my biology background comes in handy. Coffee processing involves a lot of biology and chemistry! I’ve always hated chemistry, and I still do, but having a scientific and research-driven background has really helped when it comes to trying new techniques, testing hypotheses, and tracking both the positive and negative correlations that result from those experiments.

What would you say has been the most challenging aspect of growing and processing coffee has been?

Climate and labor. Any producer anywhere in the world will probably have the same answer to that question. The climate is unpredictable! Just today, it was raining while I was out picking avocados. It’s October, and it shouldn’t be raining as much as it has been. We try to protect ourselves and our plants from various challenges, but climate is one of the harder ones to navigate, so we do what we can, when we can.

As for labor, India has a huge population—equivalent to three or four countries combined. You would think this means we have plenty of local labor available, but at the moment, the people who live around us don’t want to work on estates or do farm work. Many people prefer to move to bigger cities in search of different opportunities, rather than working in small towns or rural areas. As a result, we’ve started hiring workers from the north and northeast of India, which was uncommon for us until about three years ago; before that, we only hired local workers.

Both of these issues—climate and labor—are only going to get worse, and we’ll have to find new ways to face these challenges and develop new solutions.

What has been the most rewarding aspect? 

I think the most rewarding aspect is the feedback. I love hearing from roasters who end up picking up our coffees, like you guys. It's incredible to have someone, somewhere else in the world, buy, try, and share our coffees with different people. Two years ago, we were strangers, but now I consider us very good friends, and I think those relationships are amazing. Every roaster adds their own touch to the coffee by roasting and presenting it in a certain way—what was once mine becomes ours.

I’m always fascinated by the tasting notes on everyone’s bags too. I start piecing together a different puzzle in my head because everyone’s palate is a little different. One of my favorite things is seeing my coffee in different places. I’ve had friends send me photos on WhatsApp or tag me on Instagram saying, "Hey, I was at a coffee shop and saw your coffee in the middle of New Mexico or California—or even in the UK!" That’s an incredible feeling, and I can’t quite describe it, but it’s amazing.

What’s one thing you wish more people knew about Indian coffee?

Indian coffee, especially Arabica, has a very long history. I think people often don’t see us as serious contenders when it comes to quality, but I completely disagree. The genetics of our coffee plants go back several centuries, and India, along with Sri Lanka, was one of the first places outside the Arabian Peninsula to grow Arabica, which is amazing. We were growing coffee before South and Central America, and the combination of our plant’s genetics, ecosystem, growing conditions, and processing techniques has all the potential for producing wonderful coffee.

I’m working hard to push that narrative in everything I do, and slowly, I think we’re getting there. More people are buying and talking about Indian coffee, and I’m really happy to see that.

You’ve traveled a lot to establish relationships with the rest of the coffee supply chain, what has been your favorite part of those trips? 

A great example of this was the SCA Expo in Chicago this year, where so many friends from the industry were present. The first expo I attended was the Melbourne International Coffee Expo in 2022, and I was honestly on my own the whole time. I knew a few people, but they all had stalls and were busy at their booths, you know? All of this to say, I think it’s important to have not just colleagues, but friends, peers, and allies in this industry. That’s what made this last Expo so much more enjoyable compared to my first experience.

Although we’re quite new to the specialty market—both Kerehaklu and Indian coffee as a whole—a lot of people are paying attention to what we’re doing, and it’s been really nice to see! It’s exciting to watch people's reactions to our coffees on the cupping table at these events. They’re always pleasantly surprised, and I want to keep surprising them! Maybe one day, they’ll say, “Okay, Indian coffee’s up there!” and they won’t be surprised anymore. But until that day, I’ll keep everyone on their toes—and keep us on our toes as well.

What has been the most challenging part?

The most challenging part has been finding balance. We’re located in the middle of the jungle, and the closest major city, Bangalore, is four and a half hours away. When I was growing up, things were different. Now we have Wi-Fi and can take highways to reach our destinations, but I still miss out on a lot, even with these conveniences. Most of my friends are in the city, and when I travel to see them, I often feel like I’m overcompensating in some areas.

That’s life, and I love what I do, but I’m trying to find a balance. I want to discover that sweet spot where I can have some downtime and alone time while also experiencing the world. I want to travel, and what better way to do that than by taking our coffee places?

If you could pass along any advice you’ve learned about coffee growing or processing what would it be and why?

When it comes to coffee growing, I think we often get too caught up in varietals. I wouldn’t say it’s completely wrong; for example, Gesha is arguably one of the most sought-after varietals in the world. However, that doesn’t mean it will thrive in Indian conditions or wherever else you might want to grow it. The success of coffee cultivation depends on factors like conditions, elevation, and the microorganism networks in the soil.

I always consider what others have done before us, and a great example of that is observing land patterns. Let’s say there’s a farmer nearby who is also growing coffee. By observing what works well for them—such as the health of their plants and their yields—you can gain insights into what might succeed in your own growing conditions.

That said, I’m not opposed to acquiring varietals from different parts of the world. For instance, I currently have an SL28 from Uganda in my nursery, and I’m actually looking at it right now. I’ll be heading back to Uganda this month, and I hope to bring back some SL34 to India with me. Something I’ve learned is that in specialty coffee, having diversity in your offerings is important. At the same time, I think we need to revisit the question: “What types of coffee grow best in the area I live in?” When it comes to fruit health, those considerations really matter!

We’ve somewhat overcomplicated things with coffee on both a ground and seed level. Plants just want to thrive, survive, and produce offspring. Regarding coffee varietals, I think it’s best to keep it simple and focus more on processing.

In terms of fermentation, people are currently in a phase where they’re purchasing commercial yeast to add to their fermentation tanks. While that works and can help stabilize the fermentation process, if you want to experiment, there are plenty of alternatives. Many people don’t realize that various microbes can be harvested from your farm and used in fermentation tanks instead of commercial yeast, often yielding better results. It’s crucial to make the most of your surroundings and be resourceful to create a unique cup.

What role does biodiversity play in the coffees you produce at Kerehaklu (positive and/or negative), and how do you think other producers can foster more biodiversity on their estates?

Biodiversity is crucial, and most people don’t realize just how important it is. I briefly mentioned mycorrhizal networks, which are fungal networks beneath our soil. These networks play a vital role in transmitting messages between plants and trees through their root systems.

To illustrate, there are numerous birds in our canopies that feed on our figs. When they digest the fig seeds and poop them out in different locations, those seeds tend to propagate and germinate. It’s an interdependent ecosystem; we rely on them, and in their own way, they depend on us. The more we work to remain chemical-free and sustainable, the more it ultimately benefits us—massively, I might add—even in the form of elephants or tigers. It might sound funny, but having a tiger is an indicator of a healthy ecosystem! Tigers, as apex predators, view your land, farm, or estate as a habitat where they can maintain their diet of deer, bison, wild boar, and other prey animals, which inevitably fosters more biodiversity. I believe that going chemical-free is essential for supporting this balance.

I know that transitioning from heavy chemical use to a completely chemical-free approach is challenging, especially if you are on a farm that relies heavily on chemicals. It’s a gradual process, and sometimes, to protect your plants, you need to allow them to build immunity, even if that means they suffer a bit during the transition.

Monocrop ecosystems or farms struggle to sustain themselves due to a lack of biodiversity. In these systems, plants compete for the same resources and nutrients, making them more susceptible to diseases and pests. In contrast, we have many naturally growing shade trees, and along their bark, we cultivate black peppercorn vines and other plants. It’s always beneficial to experiment to see what thrives and what doesn’t, but coffee loves growing alongside other types of plants.

As a final thought, I’d say it’s important to start by observing what’s around you and seeing what your neighbors are doing and how well they’re doing it. I promise, it goes a long way.

Through our Coffee Partners blog series we hope to highlight the intentionality that we and others in our industry share. Without people like Pranoy, who are actively helping push the industry forward, we wouldn't be able to do our part in bringing his coffees to you! Thank you for taking the time to read this post, we hope this insight gives you a deeper appreciation for his, and other Indian coffee producers' coffees. We are lucky to have such a close friendship with Pranoy and we look forward to carrying his coffees for many years to come. Be sure to try our Kerehaklu, Cultured Washed coffee today available both on our website and at the cafes on our shelves and espresso, for a limited time.